I drove the Z today for the first time. And fixed a number of things wrong:
-Volume knobs and A/C knobs not working. I fixed this. I was able to pull the knobs off and spray a contact deoxidizer (not a contact cleaner!) called DeOxit inside all 4 areas. Spun the spindles around to work the solution in, wiped off the excess and all of the knobs/pots worked as intended, without crazy bouncing issues (i.e. spinning left would cause the opposite effect. A decrease could be an increase, etc.) This is purely oxidation related, guitars develop these issues. And I love the fact that this simple Japanese car allowed me to pull the knobs off with such ease.
-S-Mode transmission button not-functional. This is the heart of the transmission, it allows the car to rev-match and prevent jerky shifts up or down. At first, this concerned me quite a bit. But I started searching around, and the quick and common fix is to reset the ECU using the throttle pedal trick. Did it. And it came back.
-Intelligent Key light on. This one is usually related to the failure of the steering lock, which is not a problem on my car. The steering lock is a massive issues on GTRs, Maximas, and Zs of the time. When I owned it at first, I actually pulled the fuse that engaged the steering lock. You locate the fuse box, lift it out, start the car, which unlocks the steering, open the fuse box and pull the correct fuse. This prevents the wheel from being locked. A completely pointless 'safety' feature of the car that eventually resulted in a full fledged recall because it left so many people stranded randomly. I believe the light is now on because the steering lock has officially failed, but since it's disabled, it doesn't matter.
-Headlights won't shut off. Now this one is a big one. In auto mode, they don't turn off after I shut the car off. I've played around with the car's settings for this too...and nothing. The front windshield is tinted, and I suspect this may be the issue. I am going to play around with the sensor by shining a light into it while it's in the garage and see if the sensor is functional to begin with.
-Volume knobs and A/C knobs not working. I fixed this. I was able to pull the knobs off and spray a contact deoxidizer (not a contact cleaner!) called DeOxit inside all 4 areas. Spun the spindles around to work the solution in, wiped off the excess and all of the knobs/pots worked as intended, without crazy bouncing issues (i.e. spinning left would cause the opposite effect. A decrease could be an increase, etc.) This is purely oxidation related, guitars develop these issues. And I love the fact that this simple Japanese car allowed me to pull the knobs off with such ease.
-S-Mode transmission button not-functional. This is the heart of the transmission, it allows the car to rev-match and prevent jerky shifts up or down. At first, this concerned me quite a bit. But I started searching around, and the quick and common fix is to reset the ECU using the throttle pedal trick. Did it. And it came back.
-Intelligent Key light on. This one is usually related to the failure of the steering lock, which is not a problem on my car. The steering lock is a massive issues on GTRs, Maximas, and Zs of the time. When I owned it at first, I actually pulled the fuse that engaged the steering lock. You locate the fuse box, lift it out, start the car, which unlocks the steering, open the fuse box and pull the correct fuse. This prevents the wheel from being locked. A completely pointless 'safety' feature of the car that eventually resulted in a full fledged recall because it left so many people stranded randomly. I believe the light is now on because the steering lock has officially failed, but since it's disabled, it doesn't matter.
-Headlights won't shut off. Now this one is a big one. In auto mode, they don't turn off after I shut the car off. I've played around with the car's settings for this too...and nothing. The front windshield is tinted, and I suspect this may be the issue. I am going to play around with the sensor by shining a light into it while it's in the garage and see if the sensor is functional to begin with.
By s y Go To PostHow does everyone here feel about buying through Carmax?I've bought multiple cars through CarMax and my dad bought his last one through CarMax as well. They are convenient, fast and low pressure with a minimum of BS to put up with. They also tend to have a large selection of popular cars making it easy to find something that will work.
The downsides are you could probably negotiate a stronger deal somewhere else and a lot of their cars come from off-lease programs where they were mainly treated like disposable items before they were sent off to auction. This usually isn't a problem with mainstream cars that have a history of reliability (like the Camry or Accord) but on something expensive and German I would only buy a car that was still under factory warranty or pony up for the CarMax warranty at the time of purchase. Let us know how it goes and good luck with the hunt!
By AlphaSnacks Go To PostI drove the Z today for the first time. And fixed a number of things wrong:
-Volume knobs and A/C knobs not working. I fixed this. I was able to pull the knobs off and spray a contact deoxidizer (not a contact cleaner!) called DeOxit inside all 4 areas. Spun the spindles around to work the solution in, wiped off the excess and all of the knobs/pots worked as intended, without crazy bouncing issues (i.e. spinning left would cause the opposite effect. A decrease could be an increase, etc.) This is purely oxidation related, guitars develop these issues. And I love the fact that this simple Japanese car allowed me to pull the knobs off with such ease.
-S-Mode transmission button not-functional. This is the heart of the transmission, it allows the car to rev-match and prevent jerky shifts up or down. At first, this concerned me quite a bit. But I started searching around, and the quick and common fix is to reset the ECU using the throttle pedal trick. Did it. And it came back.
-Intelligent Key light on. This one is usually related to the failure of the steering lock, which is not a problem on my car. The steering lock is a massive issues on GTRs, Maximas, and Zs of the time. When I owned it at first, I actually pulled the fuse that engaged the steering lock. You locate the fuse box, lift it out, start the car, which unlocks the steering, open the fuse box and pull the correct fuse. This prevents the wheel from being locked. A completely pointless 'safety' feature of the car that eventually resulted in a full fledged recall because it left so many people stranded randomly. I believe the light is now on because the steering lock has officially failed, but since it's disabled, it doesn't matter.
-Headlights won't shut off. Now this one is a big one. In auto mode, they don't turn off after I shut the car off. I've played around with the car's settings for this too…and nothing. The front windshield is tinted, and I suspect this may be the issue. I am going to play around with the sensor by shining a light into it while it's in the garage and see if the sensor is functional to begin with.
It's always fun to get a car and start knocking out all the simple issues as cheaply/efficiently as possible.
When's the supercharger or turbo getting installed?
By matmanx1 Go To PostYeah I think I will try this position next. It's still pretty close to being a POV and the A pillar is no longer much of an obstruction. Are you using the oficial GoPro mount for this?
Nope, mount is some cheapo one from Amazon lol.
By s y Go To PostHow does everyone here feel about buying through Carmax?
They're very low pressure. A friend test drove a car and during the test drive, they ran into some road debris and popped a tire... salesman took over and took the car out back... didn't charge him or anything nor force him to buy the car. On a similar note, my dad sold his old ass Mazda6 to them and pretty much gave us the best price and we didn't even buy anything, just sold it.
That said yeah, if you're wanting to go for the lowest price possible or looking at something that might be unreliable, then I'd say Carmax isn't the right place. As matmanx1 said, a lot of their cars are coming from leases so there's good chances of them being really abused, and the low pressure sales is basically baked in to the price.
By No Love Go To PostIt's always fun to get a car and start knocking out all the simple issues as cheaply/efficiently as possible.
When's the supercharger or turbo getting installed?
Idk. I'll see. I'll need to upgrade the clutch and clutch accessories first to handle the power and not have a cylinder failure issue which these cars are notorious for. If I go F.I., I'll probably do a supercharger for reliability. I won't do anything too crazy.
By jongkookie Go To PostYeah, the front windshield works a lot better as a mounting point coz there'll be a lot less wind hitting the mic.
I actually just tested this out myself today and here's the results:
First two clips are with the 2 front windows down and the last 2 are the windows up. As for the mounting point, it's on the top left of the windshield, right next to where your oil change sticker would be.
Biggest difference imo is that with the windows down, there's a lot more exhaust/bass coming in compared to when the windows are up. Otherwise, the difference in the higher frequencies are minimal at best. I wanted to record the sound with a recorder but I can't find my lavalier mic so maybe next time lol.
I'll try that set up this weekend if it's possible. The windshield is very slanted and my camera is a lil bigger than a gopro. I'm using a Canon vixia mini x so it might be a tight fit.
By matmanx1 Go To PostI've bought multiple cars through CarMax and my dad bought his last one through CarMax as well. They are convenient, fast and low pressure with a minimum of BS to put up with. They also tend to have a large selection of popular cars making it easy to find something that will work.
The downsides are you could probably negotiate a stronger deal somewhere else and a lot of their cars come from off-lease programs where they were mainly treated like disposable items before they were sent off to auction. This usually isn't a problem with mainstream cars that have a history of reliability (like the Camry or Accord) but on something expensive and German I would only buy a car that was still under factory warranty or pony up for the CarMax warranty at the time of purchase. Let us know how it goes and good luck with the hunt!
By jongkookie Go To PostNope, mount is some cheapo one from Amazon lol.Thanks. I'm probably getting a Camry or maybe a Corrolla so I'm hoping they aren't too abused. I kind of don't want to deal with all the bullshit and negotiating with dealers.
They're very low pressure. A friend test drove a car and during the test drive, they ran into some road debris and popped a tire… salesman took over and took the car out back… didn't charge him or anything nor force him to buy the car. On a similar note, my dad sold his old ass Mazda6 to them and pretty much gave us the best price and we didn't even buy anything, just sold it.
That said yeah, if you're wanting to go for the lowest price possible or looking at something that might be unreliable, then I'd say Carmax isn't the right place. As matmanx1 said, a lot of their cars are coming from leases so there's good chances of them being really abused, and the low pressure sales is basically baked in to the price.
By zfzmikey Go To Postthe "y tho" was to the Camry/Accord/Civic, not CarMax.Those cars are at the top of all the reliability reports I see online. Figure I can't go wrong with those picks. Budget is max 17k so an Accord is probably outside my range.
But yeah, still get an independent PPI done.
*edit*
What's your budget?
The '15 and up Camrys, Corrollas and Civics fit nicely in my budget.
I'm tall so I'm thinking it narrows my pick down to a Camry.
By s y Go To PostThanks. I'm probably getting a Camry or maybe a Corrolla so I'm hoping they aren't too abused. I kind of don't want to deal with all the bullshit and negotiating with dealers.
Those cars are at the top of all the reliability reports I see online. Figure I can't go wrong with those picks. Budget is max 17k so an Accord is probably outside my range.
The '15 and up Camrys, Corrollas and Civics fit nicely in my budget.
I'm tall so I'm thinking it narrows my pick down to a Corolla.
The Camrys are really nice and I think drives better than the Civics. I'm surprise how much luxurious cars are now a days. Everything are standards now.
By reilo Go To Post
🔥🔥🔥
If you were on the other forum, you would have been dogpilled for not drinking the kool-aid.
By shinshoryuken Go To PostIf you were on the other forum, you would have been dogpilled for not drinking the kool-aid.It's not shocking to me that fake leftists on that site like another fake leftist like Musk.
The cult of Musk is something else. And those tweets aren't even the worst thing he's done this week, this one pisses me off beyond belief:
Musk also found time to lambaste the United Auto Workers this week, tweeting that the union was responsible for driving General Motors and Chrysler into bankruptcy in 2009 and destroying 200,000 jobs. The UAW is trying to organize Tesla's Freemont plant, and Musk in a Tweet said there's nothing stopping workers from voting to unionize. "But why pay union dues & give up stock options for nothing?" he added. That could invite a complaint to the National Labor Relations Board for unfair labor practices, Bloomberg reports.He's an oversized man-child that's in it for the money. Those that believe he's doing it for altruistic reasons are sycophants.
By matmanx1 Go To PostSince I'm a Macan lover and since it was a Macan GTS that started this crazy trip down the rabbit hole for me I heartily endorse this plan.
Yeah, a Turbo would be nice. But, gotta save up money first.
It'd be nice if Tesla could make a car doesn't look like it's out of a Pixar movie or something. The Model S was cool 8 years ago, but downright dated today. The X and 3 are even worse.
By AlphaSnacks Go To PostIt'd be nice if Tesla could make a car doesn't look like it's out of a Pixar movie or something. The Model S was cool 8 years ago, but downright dated today. The X and 3 are even worse.
X looks like an S that has anaphylaxis.
Every time I drive by a Model 3 I remember how unimpressed I am with Tesla's "mainstream" offering. It looks like a midget Model S with a sizeable drop in quality. Not a fan.
Once it's 2020+ and big dog manufacturers get into the electric swing, will Tesla be able to improve fast enough to survive? Or will the big dogs lag it and take their time with a truly mainstream offering? The electric car output has been a bit of a joke so far.
Once it's 2020+ and big dog manufacturers get into the electric swing, will Tesla be able to improve fast enough to survive? Or will the big dogs lag it and take their time with a truly mainstream offering? The electric car output has been a bit of a joke so far.
Welp...bad news, folks. I wanted to clean off the car today with a quick detailer just to see how the paint really was (every time I saw the car prior and during purchase, it was always raining, so it was always filthy).
Parts of the car will need to be repainted, as some of the areas are not salvageable with a detail. What I thought were smears from dirt and rain turned out to be fading clear coat and there are parts of the hood that are developing spider-webs in the clear. One little nick is even clear coat about to start peeling. It's become quite clear to me that the previous owner left the car out in the sun all the time, and basically never garaged it.
The swirl marking on the paint is truly awful. And I believe that during Hurricane Irma, some stray branches fell on the car, as there are some small little scratches along the top and a very minor dent right nearby those scratches. The scratches look like damage very consistent with something falling on the car and not much else. But the damage doesn't bother me at all. It's the condition of the paint.
I'll post some up close pics of all the damage around the car and its paint. But it's looking very likely that I'll need to have the following repainted:
Front bumper
Hood (those two at minimum)
Roof
Rear-deck/trunk.
Basically, all top parts always exposed to the sun. The 1/4 panels and rear bumper seem largely fine. As do the doors. But I'll need to do another close inspection on them tomorrow. Any areas that I find where paint is not optimal on the 1/4s I will do a spot treatment and blend in. This isn't a concourse car and it's not my XKR. I just want it looking great. Hell, if I can get away with doing that across most of the car, I'll do it.
More mechanical fixes:
After driving the car and then parking it, I noticed the idle wasn't always proper. I felt the car stutter while sitting in the driveway, almost as if it wanted to stall out and then caught itself. It was a solid 250-300RPM drop and then bounce up. This is an indication of two things that I'll be taking apart and fixing:
Throttle bodies
Mass Airflow Sensor
All 4 of them need to be removed, inspected, and cleaned. More to come.
Also need to fix the axle click. Will be taking it to a shop that'll lift the car, drop the axles and regrease them. Only $180 for the job.
Parts of the car will need to be repainted, as some of the areas are not salvageable with a detail. What I thought were smears from dirt and rain turned out to be fading clear coat and there are parts of the hood that are developing spider-webs in the clear. One little nick is even clear coat about to start peeling. It's become quite clear to me that the previous owner left the car out in the sun all the time, and basically never garaged it.
The swirl marking on the paint is truly awful. And I believe that during Hurricane Irma, some stray branches fell on the car, as there are some small little scratches along the top and a very minor dent right nearby those scratches. The scratches look like damage very consistent with something falling on the car and not much else. But the damage doesn't bother me at all. It's the condition of the paint.
I'll post some up close pics of all the damage around the car and its paint. But it's looking very likely that I'll need to have the following repainted:
Front bumper
Hood (those two at minimum)
Roof
Rear-deck/trunk.
Basically, all top parts always exposed to the sun. The 1/4 panels and rear bumper seem largely fine. As do the doors. But I'll need to do another close inspection on them tomorrow. Any areas that I find where paint is not optimal on the 1/4s I will do a spot treatment and blend in. This isn't a concourse car and it's not my XKR. I just want it looking great. Hell, if I can get away with doing that across most of the car, I'll do it.
More mechanical fixes:
After driving the car and then parking it, I noticed the idle wasn't always proper. I felt the car stutter while sitting in the driveway, almost as if it wanted to stall out and then caught itself. It was a solid 250-300RPM drop and then bounce up. This is an indication of two things that I'll be taking apart and fixing:
Throttle bodies
Mass Airflow Sensor
All 4 of them need to be removed, inspected, and cleaned. More to come.
Also need to fix the axle click. Will be taking it to a shop that'll lift the car, drop the axles and regrease them. Only $180 for the job.
By AlphaSnacks Go To PostIdk. I'll see. I'll need to upgrade the clutch and clutch accessories first to handle the power and not have a cylinder failure issue which these cars are notorious for. If I go F.I., I'll probably do a supercharger for reliability. I won't do anything too crazy.
I say do it. That transmission and drivetrain can handle power easily and since it's a high revver, it'll feel wonderful having that supercharger boost rising higher and higher.
I've always respected someone that will "rescue" a car and then bring it back to fighting condition. My first car was a 1968 Mustang with the 289 that my Dad and I restored (with the help of a neighborhood friend who was a Ford mechanic) and I remember the blood, sweat, tears and dollars we poured into that car. I truly do not have much in the way of mechanical inclination and would not choose to go down that road again by myself but mad props to anyone who can and does.
So interesting development.
My friend left town Wednesday for a month and tossed me the keys to his Acid Green 991.2 GT3 6 speed!
Friend of the Year award on lock. Lol
I guess being able to drive one for a month for free takes the sting away from not getting an allocation.
Car only has 250 miles on it so taking it easy for now, but damn this is some next level shit. The 4L is worlds more powerful than the 3.8 in my GT4. You can get into trouble quick. Haven't even revved it past 5K and I can still tell this is too much for the street at least on the roads and speed limits by where I live. It constantly eggs you on to go faster but needs a racetrack to stretch its legs.
Got it washed and detailed today. Taking it to another friends garage tomorrow to do the exhaust valve delete and install clear side markers tomorrow.
My friend left town Wednesday for a month and tossed me the keys to his Acid Green 991.2 GT3 6 speed!
Friend of the Year award on lock. Lol
I guess being able to drive one for a month for free takes the sting away from not getting an allocation.
Car only has 250 miles on it so taking it easy for now, but damn this is some next level shit. The 4L is worlds more powerful than the 3.8 in my GT4. You can get into trouble quick. Haven't even revved it past 5K and I can still tell this is too much for the street at least on the roads and speed limits by where I live. It constantly eggs you on to go faster but needs a racetrack to stretch its legs.
Got it washed and detailed today. Taking it to another friends garage tomorrow to do the exhaust valve delete and install clear side markers tomorrow.
By Evo X Go To PostSo interesting development.I would be sleeping in it if I could. I would be making excuses to visit every relative and friend I have and scheduling a month of "emergency" vacation away from work. The GT3 motor is just so, so good and sounds so, so special. Enjoy it heartily but try not to let it ruin the upcoming 911T for you!
My friend left town Wednesday for a month and tossed me the keys to his Acid Green 991.2 GT3 6 speed!
Friend of the Year award on lock. Lol
I guess being able to drive one for a month for free takes the sting away from not getting an allocation.
Car only has 250 miles on it so taking it easy for now, but damn this is some next level shit. The 4L is worlds more powerful than the 3.8 in my GT4. You can get into trouble quick. Haven't even revved it past 5K and I can still tell this is too much for the street at least on the roads and speed limits by where I live. It constantly eggs you on to go faster but needs a racetrack to stretch its legs.
Got it washed and detailed today. Taking it to another friends garage tomorrow to do the exhaust valve delete and install clear side markers tomorrow.
I'm squarely in the "fuck you, Evo X" camp.
I have another update on my 370Z regarding the paint damage. And I've got pics:
No, those aren't seahorses in my paint. That's the paint damaged from:
1) Constant exposure to sunlight without top coating
2) Shitty car washes ruining clear coat
3) Lack of proper paint care
This is spider-webbing and heat is what usually causes it in an OEM paint application on a non flexing part like the hood. Eventually, once the clear coat totally thins out below it, it flakes apart. The clear coat is so bad and so thin in this area that the hood has a notable discoloration that I thought was a hand print. This is easily the worst part of the car's exterior.
Here's more:
A lot of that is bird shit that's been etched into the paint and burned into the clear. It's basically unsalvageable and will require a respray. I am 100% certain that I will get the hood and roof resprayed. The bird shit on the front quarter panel shot by the wheel feels smooth to the touch. I have some hope that it can be sanded away, compounded, polished, and then sealed with a glass or ceramic coating. If that works, I will attempt the same on the rear hatch (the pic with the 90-degree scratch by the glass, which has similar bird shit damage).
I wiped down the whole car today with a detailer and didn't find anything else of major concern. I also drove it for about 6 miles and enjoyed it quite a bit. But going from 510HP to 332HP is a big difference. LOL
I have another update on my 370Z regarding the paint damage. And I've got pics:
No, those aren't seahorses in my paint. That's the paint damaged from:
1) Constant exposure to sunlight without top coating
2) Shitty car washes ruining clear coat
3) Lack of proper paint care
This is spider-webbing and heat is what usually causes it in an OEM paint application on a non flexing part like the hood. Eventually, once the clear coat totally thins out below it, it flakes apart. The clear coat is so bad and so thin in this area that the hood has a notable discoloration that I thought was a hand print. This is easily the worst part of the car's exterior.
Here's more:
A lot of that is bird shit that's been etched into the paint and burned into the clear. It's basically unsalvageable and will require a respray. I am 100% certain that I will get the hood and roof resprayed. The bird shit on the front quarter panel shot by the wheel feels smooth to the touch. I have some hope that it can be sanded away, compounded, polished, and then sealed with a glass or ceramic coating. If that works, I will attempt the same on the rear hatch (the pic with the 90-degree scratch by the glass, which has similar bird shit damage).
I wiped down the whole car today with a detailer and didn't find anything else of major concern. I also drove it for about 6 miles and enjoyed it quite a bit. But going from 510HP to 332HP is a big difference. LOL
Birds been attacking my car like crazy lately. I've been getting to it as soon as I see it but even a few hours in mild overcast SF sun is enough to ruin the clearcoat. Not sure what to do.
i've been dealing with construction throwing out so much dust that my car looks like it went through a dust storm just 24 hours after being fully washed, so i gave up
By Evo X Go To PostSo interesting development.
My friend left town Wednesday for a month and tossed me the keys to his Acid Green 991.2 GT3 6 speed!
Friend of the Year award on lock. Lol
I guess being able to drive one for a month for free takes the sting away from not getting an allocation.
Car only has 250 miles on it so taking it easy for now, but damn this is some next level shit. The 4L is worlds more powerful than the 3.8 in my GT4. You can get into trouble quick. Haven't even revved it past 5K and I can still tell this is too much for the street at least on the roads and speed limits by where I live. It constantly eggs you on to go faster but needs a racetrack to stretch its legs.
Got it washed and detailed today. Taking it to another friends garage tomorrow to do the exhaust valve delete and install clear side markers tomorrow.
Very nice....
Looks very green ...
By reilo Go To PostBirds been attacking my car like crazy lately. I've been getting to it as soon as I see it but even a few hours in mild overcast SF sun is enough to ruin the clearcoat. Not sure what to do.
As long as you don't let it sit there for days and days, it'll be okay. Just use any quick detailer spray, spray it on the poop, spray some of a microfiber, apply the towel to the poop and lift the poop up. Do NOT rub the towel lift and right. Do a lifting motion - when bird shit hardens up, it's extremely abrasive. I've accidentally scratched the paint on the 370Z back in NYC trying to remove bird poop and had to use a strong polish to fix it.
Haha, I always forget how expensive the vehicle registration renewal in California is ($288 for me). It's yearly, so I decided to google what the fees are/where do they go to, and to my surprise (why didn't I know this?) part of it is calculated based on vehicle purchase price/declared value.
F
M
L
if I ever buy a more expensive car in this state.
EDIT:
Okay, not that much more.
F
M
L
if I ever buy a more expensive car in this state.
EDIT:
Okay, not that much more.
By reilo Go To PostHaha, I always forget how expensive the vehicle registration renewal in California is ($288 for me). It's yearly, so I decided to google what the fees are/where do they go to, and to my surprise (why didn't I know this?) part of it is calculated based on vehicle purchase price/declared value.
F
M
L
if I ever buy a more expensive car in this state.
EDIT:
Okay, not that much more.
Here in Arizona our registration is also based on your cars value. Though its much lower overall.
Here's my registration for my 86 volvo 240, which is for 2 years.
Vehicle License Tax: $20
Registration: $8.25
Air Quality: $3.00
Specialty License Plate: $20
Total: $51.25
Louisiana is in top 5 or top 10 most expensive car insurance states, so check out my six-month bill:
Liability | Bodily Injury 50,000/100,000 | Property Damage 50,000: $446.62
Medical Payments 5,000: $30.89
250 Deductible Comprehensive: $125.83
500 Deductible Collision: $224.47
Emergency Road Service: $5.80
Car Rental & Travel Expense | 80% Per Day, $1,000 Max: $16.00
Uninsured Motor Vehicle | Bodily Injury 50,000/100,000: $155.12
Total: $1,004.73
btw, this is after Multicar (mom and i share agent but have separate plans), Vehicle Safety,and Accident-Free discounts totaling a savings of $474.91.
I have to pay $2k a year in car insurance on a 2013 Sonata while I'm over 30 with a safe driver discount. lmao
Liability | Bodily Injury 50,000/100,000 | Property Damage 50,000: $446.62
Medical Payments 5,000: $30.89
250 Deductible Comprehensive: $125.83
500 Deductible Collision: $224.47
Emergency Road Service: $5.80
Car Rental & Travel Expense | 80% Per Day, $1,000 Max: $16.00
Uninsured Motor Vehicle | Bodily Injury 50,000/100,000: $155.12
Total: $1,004.73
btw, this is after Multicar (mom and i share agent but have separate plans), Vehicle Safety,and Accident-Free discounts totaling a savings of $474.91.
I have to pay $2k a year in car insurance on a 2013 Sonata while I'm over 30 with a safe driver discount. lmao
I've put 176 miles on the GT3 so far. It is unreal. I can't thank my friend enough for this experience.
We put on clear led side markers and did exhaust valve delete at one of my other friends garage(where my GT4 is currently being stored), then drove together with 3 GT3s to get dinner after and it was some of the most fun I've had in a car. Got home 20 mins ago and still grinning ear to ear. Fuck. The precise steering, incredible handling, butter 6 speed manual and last bastion of natural aspiration that revs forever all come together in the best way. It really is something special. After some decent time behind the wheel, I understand the hype, following, and over MSRP premiums these cars demand. Wish I could go back in time and get an allocation at another dealer for myself but honestly back then, I thought I could get eventually get one from mine since it was supposed to be a 2 year production run that frustratingly got cut short.
Oh well, no sense dwelling on it. Incredibly grateful and fortunate just to be able to drive one at the moment. Taking it to a car show and BBQ at my local detail shop tomorrow. Hope to snap some pics next to other cool rides.
We put on clear led side markers and did exhaust valve delete at one of my other friends garage(where my GT4 is currently being stored), then drove together with 3 GT3s to get dinner after and it was some of the most fun I've had in a car. Got home 20 mins ago and still grinning ear to ear. Fuck. The precise steering, incredible handling, butter 6 speed manual and last bastion of natural aspiration that revs forever all come together in the best way. It really is something special. After some decent time behind the wheel, I understand the hype, following, and over MSRP premiums these cars demand. Wish I could go back in time and get an allocation at another dealer for myself but honestly back then, I thought I could get eventually get one from mine since it was supposed to be a 2 year production run that frustratingly got cut short.
Oh well, no sense dwelling on it. Incredibly grateful and fortunate just to be able to drive one at the moment. Taking it to a car show and BBQ at my local detail shop tomorrow. Hope to snap some pics next to other cool rides.
By shinshoryuken Go To PostYou should do a video review
I really want to start a YouTube channel since I have regular access to cool stuff. Just too damn lazy. I just got around to starting an Instagram last year. Lol
By Evo X Go To PostI really want to start a YouTube channel since I have regular access to cool stuff. Just too damn lazy. I just got around to starting an Instagram last year. Lol
Do a short one. Just use your phone and do a walkaround.
I honestly don't know how my insurance is calculated here in Georgia but I do know our rates are reasonable with State Farm. I want to say the MX-5 is around $65 a month for full coverage ($500 deductible). The vehicles that were on my list to test drive that I have checked rates on seemed like they ranged from $80 - $95 a month, just depending on what it was (the TTRS was around $80 whereas the F-Type R was closer to $95) for the same level of coverage.
Man some great shots and cars in this thread man, the insight into cars you provide really helps man so just wanted to say keep up the good work.
So my wife and i are tossing up between the macan s or the 45 AMG glc coupe. I'm really leaning towards the porsche as its slightly more practical/efficient over the merc. It will be her every day car and although slightly worried about her being a social worker driving around in a porsche I think it's the best mini sports suv right now.
Also the dealer was talking about the 992, really got me going. I'm already hyped because for some reason the 992 give me the same vibes as that porsche line that was in the original bad boys (that turbo will Smith drives is probably my all time fav car). So might as well just have the whole family in porches and maybe get a better deal?
So my wife and i are tossing up between the macan s or the 45 AMG glc coupe. I'm really leaning towards the porsche as its slightly more practical/efficient over the merc. It will be her every day car and although slightly worried about her being a social worker driving around in a porsche I think it's the best mini sports suv right now.
Also the dealer was talking about the 992, really got me going. I'm already hyped because for some reason the 992 give me the same vibes as that porsche line that was in the original bad boys (that turbo will Smith drives is probably my all time fav car). So might as well just have the whole family in porches and maybe get a better deal?
Evo, anything to look for in the 911s? I am going to look into leasing either a F-Type R or 911 S around my birthday (October) after I have paid off my M3. Curious to find out if there's anything specific I should know going in.
Yo, if you guys are ordering new Porsches, buy em through me! I'll hook you up. Based in Chicago, but can deliver anywhere in the country.
Also sell new Land Rover, Benz, BMW, and Jag.
Also sell new Land Rover, Benz, BMW, and Jag.
By Evo X Go To PostYo, if you guys are ordering new Porsches, buy em through me! I'll hook you up. Based in Chicago, but can deliver anywhere in the country.
Also sell new Land Rover, Benz, BMW, and Jag.
m6 quote
By Evo X Go To PostYo, if you guys are ordering new Porsches, buy em through me! I'll hook you up. Based in Chicago, but can deliver anywhere in the country.
Also sell new Land Rover, Benz, BMW, and Jag.
Does this extend to the UK?
By Kidjr Go To PostDoes this extend to the UK?
Sadly no. I'm globally certified for Porsche, but would need to move to UK to sell Euro spec cars.
What I can do is give you some inside info and impressions ahead of general public. 2019 Macan is getting a refresh so I'd wait for it, either to order one or get good deal on 18s. Also, I will be driving 992 later this year so if you have specific questions, I would be able to answer approximately 6 months before launch.
By Smokey Go To Postm6 quote
I'm sure I can get you killer lease on one if you're for real. I also get great deals on pre-owned ones from time to time. Sold a 15 Comp pack low miles for around $60k. MSRP was $137k.
Yo, if you can get deals on leases or pre-owneds, I'll definitely be hitting you up sometime this summer.
By Evo X Go To PostI'm sure I can get you killer lease on one if you're for real. I also get great deals on pre-owned ones from time to time. Sold a 15 Comp pack low miles for around $60k. MSRP was $137k.