Hello hello everyone,
What would you take? An i7 12700k/kf or the 5800x3d?
I’ll probably save with the AMD since the board I want is cheaper and I don’t have to worry about DDR5
Just curious what’s the general consensus is regarding the performance gains with the AMD processor, I’ll be pairing it with a 3080
What would you take? An i7 12700k/kf or the 5800x3d?
I’ll probably save with the AMD since the board I want is cheaper and I don’t have to worry about DDR5
Just curious what’s the general consensus is regarding the performance gains with the AMD processor, I’ll be pairing it with a 3080
5800X3D is the faster gaming CPU on average, but we're talking ~10%. You'd be set for a good long while with either, both are more than capable of feeding a 3080.
You're paying more for the CPU and less for the motherboard on AMD's side, less for the CPU and more for a good board on Intel's, although if you don't care about all the bells and whistles you'd be perfectly fine with a B660 board for the latter side's CPU. You'd be looking to potentially save 100-150$€ with the 12700K and a B660 mobo, provided you went the DDR4 route.
I'd go with the 5800X3D ... unless you're interested in upgrading to a 13th and possibly 14th gen Intel CPU in a year or two, although in this case you should definitely go DDR5. There's no upgrade path with the 5800X3D / AM4 motherboards.
You're paying more for the CPU and less for the motherboard on AMD's side, less for the CPU and more for a good board on Intel's, although if you don't care about all the bells and whistles you'd be perfectly fine with a B660 board for the latter side's CPU. You'd be looking to potentially save 100-150$€ with the 12700K and a B660 mobo, provided you went the DDR4 route.
I'd go with the 5800X3D ... unless you're interested in upgrading to a 13th and possibly 14th gen Intel CPU in a year or two, although in this case you should definitely go DDR5. There's no upgrade path with the 5800X3D / AM4 motherboards.
By SleeplessNights Go To PostHello hello everyone,
What would you take? An i7 12700k/kf or the 5800x3d?
I’ll probably save with the AMD since the board I want is cheaper and I don’t have to worry about DDR5
Just curious what’s the general consensus is regarding the performance gains with the AMD processor, I’ll be pairing it with a 3080
5800X3D is the better performer for games, more power efficient too. If you’re not concerned about buying into AM4 late, and not concerned about price. I’d say go for it.
If you are concerned about price then I’d recommend the i7 12700/F (non-K model) and a B660 DDR4 board.
I went with the latter personally. There’s not a huge difference in price between the B660 (Intel) and B550 (AMD) motherboards outside of ITX boards. In the realm of £20 more expensive for B660 between comparable boards on the low end.
Whereas the the 5800X3D is around £70-£100 more expensive than a 12700/F currently. Though I will say the price difference is justified in performance gain there.
I’ve got an asus Maximus xii hero motherboard and I have an ssd in the bottom m.2 slot. Drives are getting cheap these days and I’m thinking about picking up another one, but would it overheat being in the top m.2 slot directly under my RTX 3090? Surely they designed it to be safe, right?
By Celcius Go To PostI’ve got an asus Maximus xii hero motherboard and I have an ssd in the bottom m.2 slot. Drives are getting cheap these days and I’m thinking about picking up another one, but would it overheat being in the top m.2 slot directly under my RTX 3090? Surely they designed it to be safe, right?
Generally any airflow is better than no airflow. Even warm air coming off the GPU will assist in cooling an M.2 heatsink.
It’s a pretty chunky slab of aluminium covering the m.2 slot on that board, isn’t it?
By HonestVapes Go To PostGenerally any airflow is better than no airflow. Even warm air coming off the GPU will assist in cooling an M.2 heatsink.Yep, I guess should be fine
It’s a pretty chunky slab of aluminium covering the m.2 slot on that board, isn’t it?
By Celcius Go To PostI’ve got an asus Maximus xii hero motherboard and I have an ssd in the bottom m.2 slot. Drives are getting cheap these days and I’m thinking about picking up another one, but would it overheat being in the top m.2 slot directly under my RTX 3090? Surely they designed it to be safe, right?
You should be fine. I’ve got 3x m2 drives with one being under the GPU, and zero issues. The heatsink covering it will do it’s job.
By Zabojnik Go To Post16:9, lol.Thanks.
I like almost everything about the new G7 and G8 except the curve. Who the fuck puts that kind of curve on a non-ultrawide.
Also, fuck Samsung for yet again not having a 21:9 monitor in their mini LED lineup. Absolute cunts.
2004 game vs. 2015 laptop gpu. You have a decent shot. Can always refund or distro it.
I downloaded steam and when the app opened my GPU crashed for like 5 seconds so I uninstalled it.
Hopefully Ubisoft does a console collection
By Smokey Go To PostYou should be fine. I’ve got 3x m2 drives with one being under the GPU, and zero issues. The heatsink covering it will do it’s job.Cool thanks
By s y Go To PostThanks.Might as well emulate it* then if you want higher res and probably a texture pack out there too by the community.
I downloaded steam and when the app opened my GPU crashed for like 5 seconds so I uninstalled it.
Hopefully Ubisoft does a console collection
*if you already own it that is.
By Kibner Go To PostYes, there is fuckery abound in DDR. DDR stands for double-data rate and relies on having even numbers of sticks. Just get 2x8 GB sticks and throw away the 2x4 GB ones. If you mix different sticks, they will all run at the speeds of the slowest stick.
Is this an issue when both sets are 1600MHz?
By Righteous Furry Go To PostIs this an issue when both sets are 1600MHz?Kinda. At that point, it would be making the timings match the slowest stick.
Is this ddr3 you are replacing?
Yeah, didn't realise the different DDRs have physical differences and were only compatible with the equivalent generations of motherboards so now have a pair of useless ddr4 sticks as well. Might keep them in case I end up needing a new build entirely.
Will give it a go with just the new ones, don't think I'd need 24GB at all anyway. PC was proper locking up yesterday, wish I knew why its spiking and then tanking in the menu on Dota, but it's absolutely fine in-game.
Will give it a go with just the new ones, don't think I'd need 24GB at all anyway. PC was proper locking up yesterday, wish I knew why its spiking and then tanking in the menu on Dota, but it's absolutely fine in-game.
Sorry, I could have caught that for you but I still can't view that PC Partpicker list you linked. lol
e: I would refund those DDR4 sticks because new systems in a year or two will all be DDR5
e: I would refund those DDR4 sticks because new systems in a year or two will all be DDR5
I'll take at least part of the blame for not learning this shit when I built the PC in the first place, and only looking up how to replace the RAM after I'd already bought it lol
Not sure I'd buy a DDR5 motherboard even if I need a new PC, unless there's not much difference in price compared to the ones that use DDR4. Dota is literally the only game I play on it, and it's the most intensive thing I run so don't need anything to be high end.
Not sure I'd buy a DDR5 motherboard even if I need a new PC, unless there's not much difference in price compared to the ones that use DDR4. Dota is literally the only game I play on it, and it's the most intensive thing I run so don't need anything to be high end.
At least DDR5 is actually obtainable now. When I was putting this PC together all i could find was a dude on ebay selling a 16GB kit for about £800.
In the middle of moving, when AW3423DW arrived. So this is my setup to test it out. Newest firmware and no dead/stuck prixels and obviously no backlight bleeding. Inshallah
Room I tested in was fairly bright, but black levels still seemed deep. Cant wait to get my desk up next week and test it with the 3090 instead of a laptop
Room I tested in was fairly bright, but black levels still seemed deep. Cant wait to get my desk up next week and test it with the 3090 instead of a laptop
Installed my RAM, forgot I'd used the slot under the heatsink fan. Glad I did though, removing that let me see how much dust had built up on the heatsink, gave it a clean with an old toothbrush. Put the new sticks in the slots I wasn't using which is apparently what I should have been doing all along.
Tried adding the old RAM to the new just because I won't do anything with it otherwise and it it somehow fucked the video output. PC turned on for a second, then off, then rebooted itself and nothing happened. Shat myself a bit, thought I'd dislodged the GPU or CPU, they seem like an absolute nightmare to tweak compared to the other components.
Tried adding the old RAM to the new just because I won't do anything with it otherwise and it it somehow fucked the video output. PC turned on for a second, then off, then rebooted itself and nothing happened. Shat myself a bit, thought I'd dislodged the GPU or CPU, they seem like an absolute nightmare to tweak compared to the other components.
By Righteous Furry Go To PostInstalled my RAM, forgot I'd used the slot under the heatsink fan. Glad I did though, removing that let me see how much dust had built up on the heatsink, gave it a clean with an old toothbrush. Put the new sticks in the slots I wasn't using which is apparently what I should have been doing all along.That was likely just the motherboard rebooting to workable settings for the two different sets of RAM you had installed. Filling 3 or all 4 slots can get kinda funky with memory timings.
Tried adding the old RAM to the new just because I won't do anything with it otherwise and it it somehow fucked the video output. PC turned on for a second, then off, then rebooted itself and nothing happened. Shat myself a bit, thought I'd dislodged the GPU or CPU, they seem like an absolute nightmare to tweak compared to the other components.
Guess I could have tried booting in bios mode, just took them back out though since I shouldn't need them
Do new heatsink fans have a better design than the clip-on plastic casing? Getting my fingernails under the teeth with enough force was a bit of a nightmare, especially with how close it is to the GPU and with the CPU right under it
Do new heatsink fans have a better design than the clip-on plastic casing? Getting my fingernails under the teeth with enough force was a bit of a nightmare, especially with how close it is to the GPU and with the CPU right under it
By Righteous Furry Go To PostGuess I could have tried booting in bios mode, just took them back out though since I shouldn't need themMostly no, you'll either have plastic or metal clips to attach fans to heatsinks. Corsair had a pretty cool slider system on their one heatsink they released a couple years ago but the heatsink itself was pretty terrible for the price. I wouldn't worry about damaging anything though.
Do new heatsink fans have a better design than the clip-on plastic casing? Getting my fingernails under the teeth with enough force was a bit of a nightmare, especially with how close it is to the GPU and with the CPU right under it
The CPU will be fully locked into place in the socket, and the GPU is fairly well protected by the backplate (assuming your GPU has one) as well as being secured in the slot.
https://mobile.twitter.com/kopite7kimi/status/1551619750572457984?t=IDYAZFSpt2Cp6MODwfgkTg&s=19
48gb Ada Titan is rumored, consuming 800 watts
48gb Ada Titan is rumored, consuming 800 watts
By WoodenLung Go To PostIn the middle of moving, when AW3423DW arrived. So this is my setup to test it out. Newest firmware and no dead/stuck prixels and obviously no backlight bleeding. Inshallahincredible
Room I tested in was fairly bright, but black levels still seemed deep. Cant wait to get my desk up next week and test it with the 3090 instead of a laptop
doritos and mountain dew just a hands reach away
the new way to play
@zabo what cat ethernet cable should i get in this day and age? for 1000/1000 fiber (maybe upgrading to 2500/2500 in the future). Does it even really make a difference for a home network
Cat 5e/6
You won’t notice the difference unless you’re transferring TBs of data on the regular in your home network, but cat6 supports up to 10 Gbps.
You won’t notice the difference unless you’re transferring TBs of data on the regular in your home network, but cat6 supports up to 10 Gbps.
Yeah, Cat6 will do, doesn't really matter which flavour for typical home use.
Unshielded is perfectly fine, but I've also never had problems with non-grounded shielded ethernet cables, even when running them alongside electrical wiring for 50m+, and in my experience you're more likely to find better quality cables amongst those. It's not a rule tho.
Unshielded is perfectly fine, but I've also never had problems with non-grounded shielded ethernet cables, even when running them alongside electrical wiring for 50m+, and in my experience you're more likely to find better quality cables amongst those. It's not a rule tho.
I mean is this for a house you are building or is it for a 6 foot cable from your router to your computer?
I would recommend against shielded cables for the latter (and for most home scenarios tbh).
I would recommend against shielded cables for the latter (and for most home scenarios tbh).
While I wait for my two Gladiator sticks to arrive, I've more or less completed my under-desk sliding rail joystick mounting system™.
The initial plan was to go with Monstertech's solution, but that would've cost me a measly 524€ for two mounts + sliding rail, more than what I paid for both joysticks lol, so that was an insta-nope.
I briefly considered copying this ingenious solution, but the linear rails alone would've come to half the aforementioned sum, plus I had my doubts about the rigidity and customizability / adaptability of the whole thing.
Upon realizing that Monstertech use standard aluminium extrusions for most of their products, I decided to explore that route. As luck would have it I came across a german shop that's very likely Monstertech's supplier and quickly realized that I could basically order 90% of the parts needed to 1:1 copy their system, with parts already cut to size and tapped, for a fraction of the cost. One specific custom part I'd have to manufacture myself, but I'm not above cutting and drilling me some aluminium, the soft cunt of metals.
A week later ...
The rail is an 80x16 extrusion, the mount parts are 80x40. The sliding insert with teflon padding is what makes moving the whole thing possible. All I've really had to do is drill some holes and engineer the aluminium bar to which the sliding assembly and the mount are bolted on.
The most annoying part about this project has been having to flip my table around 180° to accommodate the rail - that fancy inward curve at the front doesn't play nice with it - which unfortunately meant redoing all the cable management, including cutting new through holes, etc. A real PITA.
The table top is MDF, so ideally I should've glued the rail with two-part epoxy. I want to be able to remove it tho, so I went overkill with heavy duty threaded inserts instead. Very happy with the results after some stress testing, the table will snap in half before the rail comes loose.
Same goes for the mounts, these 90° connectors are the shit ...
And this is what the near-finished product looks like.
I'll have to make a couple of base mounting plates for the Gladiators and I need to figure out a way to have the USB cables stay hidden and out of the way when I'm sliding the mounts left and right. I'm thinking a drag chain. That's a problem for after I get my joysticks tho.
So, yeah. It's not quite as fancy as a system with bearings / sliding rails, but hey. Once you tighten those knobs the mounts aren't moving by a millimeter. In fact, I think I'll have to bolt the table to the back wall, 'cause it's the table that's moving when you're going wild, not the mounts.
Total material cost came to around 180€, which isn't cheap, but much cheaper than if I bought them pre-made.
The initial plan was to go with Monstertech's solution, but that would've cost me a measly 524€ for two mounts + sliding rail, more than what I paid for both joysticks lol, so that was an insta-nope.
I briefly considered copying this ingenious solution, but the linear rails alone would've come to half the aforementioned sum, plus I had my doubts about the rigidity and customizability / adaptability of the whole thing.
Upon realizing that Monstertech use standard aluminium extrusions for most of their products, I decided to explore that route. As luck would have it I came across a german shop that's very likely Monstertech's supplier and quickly realized that I could basically order 90% of the parts needed to 1:1 copy their system, with parts already cut to size and tapped, for a fraction of the cost. One specific custom part I'd have to manufacture myself, but I'm not above cutting and drilling me some aluminium, the soft cunt of metals.
A week later ...
The rail is an 80x16 extrusion, the mount parts are 80x40. The sliding insert with teflon padding is what makes moving the whole thing possible. All I've really had to do is drill some holes and engineer the aluminium bar to which the sliding assembly and the mount are bolted on.
The most annoying part about this project has been having to flip my table around 180° to accommodate the rail - that fancy inward curve at the front doesn't play nice with it - which unfortunately meant redoing all the cable management, including cutting new through holes, etc. A real PITA.
The table top is MDF, so ideally I should've glued the rail with two-part epoxy. I want to be able to remove it tho, so I went overkill with heavy duty threaded inserts instead. Very happy with the results after some stress testing, the table will snap in half before the rail comes loose.
Same goes for the mounts, these 90° connectors are the shit ...
And this is what the near-finished product looks like.
I'll have to make a couple of base mounting plates for the Gladiators and I need to figure out a way to have the USB cables stay hidden and out of the way when I'm sliding the mounts left and right. I'm thinking a drag chain. That's a problem for after I get my joysticks tho.
So, yeah. It's not quite as fancy as a system with bearings / sliding rails, but hey. Once you tighten those knobs the mounts aren't moving by a millimeter. In fact, I think I'll have to bolt the table to the back wall, 'cause it's the table that's moving when you're going wild, not the mounts.
Total material cost came to around 180€, which isn't cheap, but much cheaper than if I bought them pre-made.
By FootbalIFan Go To PostIncredible stuff zabo
You amaze me
By WoodenLung Go To Post@zabo what cat ethernet cable should i get in this day and age? for 1000/1000 fiber (maybe upgrading to 2500/2500 in the future). Does it even really make a difference for a home networkChannel your inner zabo and run fibre throughout the place.
By Pedja Go To PostChannel your inner zabo and run fibre throughout the place.If only splicing wasn't such an involved process ...
By Lunatic Go To PostThe hardware required to run fibre is no jokeMikrotik to the rescue.
By Laboured Go To PostRTX 4070 as quick as RTX 3090 is it?
The truth will likely be less clean cut than that. Just like how the marketed the 3070 like a half price 2080Ti with identical performance, despite it being quite a bit worse than the 2080Ti at 4K.
These Intel Arc cancellation rumors are wild.
By Batong Go To PostIf I go for a graphics card 4070 is on my 👀I'll have a 3080 with your name on it for a very reasonable price, when the 4000 series drops.